Take an lovely stroll along the easy quay of the Venetian harbor on AktiEnoseos and sit amongst the locals who boisterously pack the tavernas around 9 p.m. One of my favorites is Ta Neoria, ideal to while away a perfect summer evening amongst the generations of kids, parents and grandparents alike merrily feasting on the fine simplicity of classic Greek seafood where all your senses are awakened and satiated. In the face of a full house of lively diners, you might feel a bit neglected (especially if you're not one of the locals) by the speedily servers hopping from one table to the next during their climactic hour. But don't worry - there's a steady stream of unfussy appetizing dishes pouring in and out of the kitchen to amuse your eyes while perusing the menu. Try the lightly charred grilled octopus, wild dandelion greens (called horta) sauteed with local olive oil, calamari with a squeeze of lemon, lightly fried aubergine, and your classic Greek salad. Don't forget, the freshly made halva tops for dessert. Heaven.
To idle the nights away, the campy and kitsch Ta Duo Lux changes its decor as often as the season's leaves turn. Hoping at all hours this artsy hangout is most sought after by the youthful Haniot indies to enjoy a spot upstairs where you'll find a clandestinely tucked tea room with a tiny loot of delicious sandwiches. Happy groups of friends gather on the terrace come summer where the sound of eclectic tunes add an informal vibe and boisterous cheer.
And I unexpectedly stumbled upon Lyraika (a.k.a.Cafe Kriti), its florescent lights buzzing with an aire for well, eclectic mishmosh, this infamous music joint is worth experiencing. Its lyra and rembetika tradition attracts Cretan musicians from around the island staging great performances with all the buzz of authenticity and jumping clammer between the owner and his two-stepin' son.
*Here's a pointer* It goes without saying to keep this in mind for most of your travels, one of the best points of advice I've heard from the locals is this, you never know when you're about to be had by the ubiquitous tourist taverna, pulling all the stops to win your hedonist heart over. You know better than to be lured by the hype, but in one quick turn you're following the exuberant music, suddenly cornered by the eager host waving the menu enthusiastically in your face, slapped on the hand with a confusing receipt and left curbside like yesterday's garbage questioning your hunger from the get-go. No good true establishment (open-air kitchen stall, boutique, bar and so on) worth your time and dollar needs convincing.